Archive for May, 2010

Skirting

May 15th, 2010 @ admin

Be sure to buy skirting of the right size. Panels heights vary. Before you determine the height you need, first verify your home’s leveling . Then measure from the ground to the bottom of your home where the ground is lowest. Buy according to that measurement. Know the width and length. Don’t buy skirting for a 1 2×50-foot home when yours is 14×50 feet. If you have pull-out sections or a porch, buy additional skirting for them.

Specific instructions often accompany skirting you purchase, but you may find some basic tips helpful. Set aside an entire weekend for the installation. Start at the right front corner, Install the top rail first. Fasten the rails with 1/4-inch hex-head sheet-metal screws. Place the rail low enough to hold the panels in place during warm weather. But allow enough space above the panels for frost heave to lift the panels.
To form outside corners, use your tin snips to clip out a V section from the railing at the point where the corner falls. Then bend the rail to make the corner.
Where you have a pull-out section or porch along a wall, install railings with outside corners first on that section. Form the inside corners by butting straight lengths of railing. Use tin snips to cut off excess rail and to fit these inside corners.
Next install the bottom rail. If the rails you buy do not have drain holes, make some with a small drill. Fit the corners as you did with the top rails. Top and bottom rails must be plumb (straight up and down) at the corners. Test this with a level or plumb-bob. Fasten the bottom rails with cement bolts or special ground channels. Slide the skirting panels into the rails.

When your mobile home starts to look shabby

May 14th, 2010 @ admin

When your mobile home starts to look shabby, don’t moan that your investment has gone down the drain. Paint it This job is not one of those quickie repairs, so enlist some help from friends.
For best painting results, you need a temperature around 70°. Weather should be calm, clear, and dry. Don’t paint in the sun, however.
Assemble these items: paint, primer, paint sprayer, body filler, sanding blocks, fine sandpaper, wax and grease remover, rubbing compound, masking tape, newspapers, and plenty of clean rags.
Wash the skin of your home thoroughly. Then clean it with wax and grease remover. Work in small sections. This is where your friends come in. Sand the exterior walls with fine-grain sandpaper and lots of water. Begin at the roof line and work down. Don’t allow paint dust to build up in the sandpaper grit; it will spoil the final finish. Rinse the sanding area often with clean water. Change to fresh sandpaper frequently. After sanding, clean the area again with the wax/grease solvent. Most likely, in cleaning, you’ll find scratches you never knew were there. Patch them with autobody filler; follow the directions on the filler kit. Sand the filler smooth.
Mask off windows and decorative trim with newspapers and masking tape. Remove shutters. Before using the sprayer, test it on a piece of scrap wood. A spray gun held too close to the surface makes the paint run. Spray from a distance of 6—8 inches. Adjust the distance to obtain a fine, stable spray.
Apply a primer first. When that dries, water-sand it. Clean that and let it dry. Then apply a second coat of primer. Water-sand it too. After that primer coat has dried, spray on the paint. Apply several very light coats of paint. Allow each coat to dry tacky before you spray on the next coat.
In a few days, when the paint has thoroughly dried, use rubbing compound to bring out a luster.

Sealing your roof

May 7th, 2010 @ admin

Sealing your roof is second in importance only to blocking and anchoring. At least twice a year examine the roof, top seams, and vents for cracks and loose screws. Clean leaves and trash from the
vents in order to see them well. Tighten any loose screws you find. Replace the rusty ones. Then seal the holes and seams with a thick,messy, but effective goo called Kool-Seal. If you want a neater-
seeming job and are willing to sacrifice some effectiveness, apply a silicone sealant with a caulking gun. Smooth the edges with your fingers for a better bond, but keep the silicone material off your
clothes and away from your eyes.

Reseal your roof

May 5th, 2010 @ admin

Once a year, reseal your roof completely. Some Sealants spread on easily with mop or brush. You can apply other types with high- pressure spray guns. However, one word of caution Exercise care walking on the roof. Some manufacturers suggest Sealing their roofs from a scaffold. Others suggest laying a large piece of plywood on the roof to distribute your weight broadly. You don’t Want to dent your roof or step through it.
You may find sealing products in a variety of colors. Remember that a light-colored or silver roof reflects hot sun rays best. You’ll appreciate this most if you live in a hot climate. If you live in a mostly cool climate, a dark roof tends to hold the sun’s warm rays, adding some extra heating on cold but sunny winter days.

Tightening loose screws

May 3rd, 2010 @ admin

Your steps add to or detract from the appearance of your home. You can by mobile home steps made of cement, wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or steel. You can even build your own. However, beauty becomes secondary when steps grow rickety and dangerous.
You can try to correct rickety steps by tightening loose screws. If the wobble persists, maybe you can get rid of rocking motion by sliding shims into low areas under the steps. Take off rust with steel wool. Apply a coat of new paint to the steps so they won’t rust again—for a while.
Replace steps that are too hazardous for repair. Select new steps with care. For the right height, measure from the ground to the threshold. The steps should be just shorter than that. Consider the depth of the step risers too. Select steps that feel comfortable to climb and give you safe footing.
And while you’re thinking of safe footing, look for steps with nonskid treads. You also reduce the likelihood of falls by attaching handrails to the open sides of your steps. Railings fit on easily, whether you select cement or fiberglass steps. Installing steps and handrail should take no more than 30 minutes.

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